Routing Around

Climbing started as an antisocial endeavor after bouncing between gym work and martial arts coming across what could be the next thing to keep me entertained.  After seeing a First Accent pop up on TV the realization of a sport I could be doing on my own was very appealing to introverted eyes.  Starting rock climbing alone on some rock in Belair National Park with a pair of crap old volly’s and some chalk from lifting in the gym quickly finding that there was a lot more to it than I expected.

Now moving into the gym scene and starting to pull on plastic I began to get have some probably healthy social activity enforced upon me realizing that climbing wasn’t as much a individual endeavor as I originally expected.  Now moving to far from what was the local climbing gym at the time (Vertical Reality) I decided that it time to build my own woody.  It seemed to take on a life of its own and out grew its original plan and having a couple of other climbers down to check it out they announced that I should open it to the public being slightly to small one more section of the wall got built and Southern Boulder was born.

This now left me with the issue of having never set a route or even watched grades when I had been climbing brought out a whole new world of climbing that had to quickly adopted into my bouldering.  With no real experience in route setting there were a few things came obvious quite quickly one my perception of grades was awful and two the awareness of other peoples movement and capabilities was almost non-existent so a steep learning curve arose.

Thankfully with some patient regulars happy to be the testers of some pretty clunky and ill thought out problems, we worked through movements and tried to come up with some groovy climbs for the people that turned up.  With the input of other climbers and setters there were a couple of points that became a bit of a basis for the early setting 1. Find a movement or technique you want to achieve as a crux move and find a way in and out of that movement that is accessible for many body types but forces a beta.  2. Add in a second move that is slightly easier than the pervious crux but makes them have to keep thinking through the whole climb. And 3. Get as many people to try and break your beta as possible, there will always be room to improve an understanding of the way people move.

Southern Boulder