The Nexxos are no big secret in the world of performance climbing and bouldering shoes, they have been out for a couple of years and continue to stand up well in a range of styles of climbing. Designed by Evolv in conjunction with Chris Sharma the experience to create a great all round shoe has clearly gone a long way.
Over the last few weeks I have been trying them out, both in the gym and out at the crag.
Total Rating: 8/10
Sensitivity: For a shoe with a hard edge they aren’t to bad although if you are a fan of the no-edge climbing shoes or softer shoes you they may feel a bit off
Edging: By far the best aspect of the Nexxos what you loose in sensitivity with the hard edge you get back in edging they provide a stable footing on some of the sharpest edges
Heel Hook: Although having a soft heel gives good friction I found there was a large amount of dead space making it uncomfortable in some angles
Toe Hook: There is a good amount of rubber on the toe giving a good size surface area but has with uneven rubber pattern and a down turn all the way to the toe some of the friction is lost
Pockets and Cracks: The pointed to crams well into small slots and pockets and to good surface area of rubber over the toe gives great grab if you can cam your foot in a decent size crack
Smearing: The shoe is soft enough that with enough pressure you can get a decent amount of rubber on the wall but found there are definitely better alternatives for smearing out there with greater sensitivity on nothing holds.
Comfort: Like most performance shoes they took a few wears to get them shaped to the foot infact the first time getting them on was a bit of a challenge but after a few wears they are pretty comfortable for a performance shoe. The other consideration is I have been wearing this shoe on cooler days and not to sure how well it will breath come summer may end up-with pretty toasty feet
Value: They are one of the cheapest high performance shoes going around and look like they with stand up well to indoor climbing however if you are hammering them on the rock they will start to break down. If you are looking for a cheaper performance shoe but don’t want to compromise on power output they are a great choice or for your first performance shoe if you are not quite ready to spend big dollars on a pair of shoes. You can get a pair as cheep as $100 if you are lucky enough to find a deal online.
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